Read introduction

In Argentina, there is a new type of tourism: Human Rights. Places associated with the workers' struggles and dictatorships are preserved so that we may learn about what happened -- and attempt to prevent it from coming to pass again.

To learn more about this vibrant country’s Haunted Past and human rights tourism, please see my article, “Argentina’s Haunted Past” ( with tips of museums and other sites to visit.

In this article, I make this warning about the former torture center in Córdoba: “If you are particularly sensitive to energies, you might find this museum a bit overpowering.”

I wrote this poem upon visiting that center, as a way to ground myself.


L_caputoby Lorraine Caputo29 Oct 2014

Walking into that centuries-old building,
through a wall torn down
to reveal the memories
of that dark Dirty War

The testimonies of survivors
splayed through the air

& the memories that still
hang heavy

I sense those spirits
waiting on concrete benches,
cowling in pain
in small windowless cells,
names, dates scratched
in the plaster,
bodies dragged
through the maze of
narrow corridors

The memories
shove me
the doorways
of that subterranean
torture chamber
& that one
at the top
of steep stairs

I hear those screams
those thuds
slamming my head
against invisible
palpable walls,
echoing around me
from every corner
within this
Archives of Memory

published in :
The Más Tequila Review (Winter 2013)